5 Reasons Not to Install Your Own Hot Water Heater

1. You may not select the right water heater for your needs and specifications.

   It’s not as simple as replacing a 30-gallon hot water heater with another 30-gallon model. There are thousands of sizes and options available today. Fuel source, energy efficiency, fast recovery, venting and anticipated demand must all be considered in order to determine the correct model.

2. Local codes and ordinances may not permit self-installation.

   Regulations governing water heater installation vary by city. Professional contractors are familiar with the rules and regulations in each city they service.

3. Installation requires materials and knowledge most homeowners don’t have on hand.

   Installation involves much more than just attaching a water line. A professional contractor arrives with all the fittings, pipes, parts, tools, venting materials and valves needed to install the job correctly the first time. Most also include removal and disposal of your old water.

4. A professional contractor may be able to repair your hot water heater instead of replace it.

   If your hot water heater’s problem is diagnosed as a defective heating element or faulty valve, it can be fixed. A contractor’s experience is the difference between a minor repair and unnecessary investment in a new water heater.

5. Contractors provide safety and security you can live with.
   Professional contractors are licensed and bonded to ensure your safety. Most provide warranties covering each installation. The local building authorities inspect all work, as required by code to protect your family’s health and safety.

Tap Water Scalds: Safety Alert

Document #5098

Each year, approximately 3,800 injuries and 34 deaths occur in the home due to scalding from excessively hot tap water. The majority of these accidents involve the elderly and children under the age of five. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) urges all users to lower their water heaters to 120 degrees Fahrenheit. In addition to preventing accidents, this decrease in temperature will conserve energy and save money.

Most adults will suffer third-degree burns if exposed to 150 degree water for two seconds. Burns will also occur with a six-second exposure to 140 degree water or with a thirty second exposure to 130 degree water. Even if the temperature is 120 degrees, a five minute exposure could result in third-degree burns.

Various procedures for lowering water temperature in the home exist, depending on the method of heating. Here are some suggestions:

Electric water heaters. Call your local electric company to adjust the thermostat. Some companies offer this service at no-charge. Hot water should not be used for at least two hours prior to setting. To make the adjustment yourself, start by shutting off current to the water heater, then turn off the circuit breaker to the heater or remove the fuse that serves the heater. Most electric water heaters have two thermostats, both of which must be set to a common temperature for proper operation. To reach these thermostats you must remove the upper and lower access panels. Adjust the thermostat following the instructions provided with the appliance. Hold a candy or meat thermometer under the faucet to check water temperature.

Gas water heaters. Because thermostats differ, call your local gas company for instructions. Where precise temperatures are not given, hold a candy or meat thermometer under faucet for most accurate reading first thing in the morning or at least two hours after water use. If reading is too high, adjust thermostat on heater, according to manufacturers instructions, and check again with thermometer.

Furnace heater. If you do not have an electric, gas, or oil-fired water heater, you probably have an on-line hot water system. Contact your fuel supplier to have the temperature lowered. If you live in an apartment, contact the building manager to discuss possible options for lowering your tap water temperature. Reducing water temperature will not affect the heating capacity of the furnace.

The CPSC notes that a thermostat setting of 120 degrees Fahrenheit (49 degrees Celsius) may be necessary for residential water heaters to reduce or eliminate the risk of most tap water scald injuries. Consumers should consider lowering the thermostat to the lowest settings that will satisfy hot water needs for all clothing and dish washing machines.

Note: Installation is more difficult on gas and oil-fired heaters. Ask a qualified HVAC contractor for instructions.

1. Cut the tank top insulation to fit around the piping in the top of the tank. Tape the cut section closed after the top has been installed.

2. Fold the corners of the tank top insulation down and tape to the sides of the tank.
3. Position the insulating blanket around the circumference of the tank. For ease of installation, position the blanket so that the ends do not come together over the access panels in the side of the tank. Some tanks have only one access panel.

4. Secure the blanket in place with the belts provided. Position the belts so they do not go over the access panels (Figure 2). Belts should fit snugly over the blanket but not compress it more than 15% to 20% of its thickness. The installation is easier with two people. If working alone, use tape to hold the blanket to the top until you get the belts into position.

5. If your water heater has the temperature/ pressure relief valve and the overflow pipe on the side of the tank instead of on the top, install the blanket so these items are outside of the blanket. Depending on the piping arrangement and location, you may need to compress, or even cut, the blanket.

6. Locate the four corners of the access panel(s). Make an x-shaped cut in the insulating blanket from corner to corner of each access panel.

7. Fold the triangular flaps produced by the cuts underneath the insulating blanket. Repeat steps 6 and 7 for the rating/ instruction plate.

8. The blanket must not be installed on a leaking tank.

The Consumer Product Safety Commission has been working to reduce the risk of injuries and deaths from gas-fired water heaters.

The Commission was briefed on the issue by CPSC staff in June of 1994. The Commission let the industry know that it wanted to see a solution to this problem, and that it was considering development of a Federal regulation that would address the problem of flammable vapor ignition in gas-fired heaters.

Prior to 1994, the Commission staff had been seeking a permanent, technical solution to the hazard of flammable vapors. Commission staff believed that this problem required not only the education of consumers about the proper use and storage of flammable liquids, but also a redesign of water heaters.

Following the June 1994 Commission meeting, industry officials informed the Commission that they were working on a technical solution — a redesign of water heaters — that would eliminate the ignition of flammable vapors by water heaters. Industry also expressed a willingness to work closely in voluntary cooperation with CPSC on the issue.

Giving industry the opportunity to voluntarily develop the technology necessary to achieve a permanent solution has several advantages over regulation. The voluntary approach results in manufacturers investing their own resources in developing test methodologies — saving taxpayer dollars and making use of industry’s knowledge and technical expertise about the product they manufacture.

In December, 1994, following the water heater manufacturers’ offer to work with CPSC to eliminate the hazard, the Commission agreed to postpone the regulatory process. But, CPSC Chairman Ann Brown expressly stated that industry must make real progress toward a technical solution and on developing a performance standard by which the safety of any new design could be measured.

As part of the CPSC’s participation with industry in the efforts to reach a technical solution to this problem, CPSC staff has been closely monitoring the development of vapor-ignition resistant water heaters by the Water Heater Joint Research and Development Consortium. Three prototypes have already been tested and performed well in flammability tests.

The industry is funding the independent development of that performance test standard. The Gas Research Institute is developing a way to test gas-fired water heaters to ensure that they will not ignite flammable vapors. A technical advisory group consisting of representatives from the gas industry, manufacturers, industry trade associations and CPSC staff, oversees this project.

The Commission has also worked with industry to educate the public on the hazard of flammable vapors. The Commission endorsed a large public information campaign launched by the Gas Appliance Manufacturers Association in 1994 which included television commercials and materials designed to appeal to and inform children about the hazard. In addition, the Commission published its own information on the hazard in its home and fire safety brochures.

To reduce the hazard of flammable vapors, consumers should:

• Make sure gas-fired water heaters are installed according to code requirements;
• Where possible, elevate heaters 18 inches from the floor, whether installed in a basement or garage;
• Never use gasoline to clean equipment or tools;
• Use gasoline only as a motor fuel;
• Store gasoline only in tightly sealed red containers intended for gasoline; and
• Keep all flammable materials and liquids away from gas-fired water heaters.

The first step in choosing a water heater is to determine the appropriate fuel type. Natural gas, oil, and propane water heaters are generally less expensive to operate than electric models. If you are considering electricity, check with your local utility company or electricity supplier to see if they offer off-peak electricity rates. If available, heating your water during off-peak hours will save you money.

If you are in a moderate climate, consider a heat-pump water heater, which is more efficient than a conventional electric water heater. Though a heat-pump water heater may have a high initial cost, it can save up to 50% of your water heating bill in moderate climates. Heat pumps can be added onto your water heater or purchased as an integral part of a new water heater.

The efficiency of water heaters is indicated by their energy factor (EF), which is based on recovery efficiency, standby losses, and cycling losses. The higher the EF, the more efficient the water heater. Electric resistance water heaters have EFs ranging from 0.7 and 0.95; gas water heaters from 0.5 and 0.6, with some high-efficiency models ranging around 0.8; oil water heaters from 0.7 and 0.85; and heat-pump water heaters from 1.5 to 2.0. Everything else being equal, select a water heater with the highest energy factor (EF). Also look for a water heater with at least one-and-a-half inches of tank insulation and a heat trap.

In the United States, all water heaters are sold with EnergyGuide labels to indicate their energy efficiency. These labels provide estimated annual operating costs, and also indicate the cost of operating the models with the highest annual operating cost and the lowest annual operating cost. By comparing a model’s annual operating cost with the operating cost of the most efficient model, you can compare their efficiencies.

Although some consumers buy water heaters based on the size of the storage tank, the first-hour rating (FHR), provided on the EnergyGuide label, is actually more important. The FHR is a measure of how much hot water the heater will deliver during a busy hour. Before you buy a water heater, estimate your household’s peak-hour hot water use (your water use during morning showers, for instance) and look for a unit with an FHR in that range.

Demand water heaters are an option that should be considered when replacing a water heater or when building a new home. Demand water heaters only produce hot water when you need it, thereby avoiding the energy losses due to storing hot water. However, they have a low flow rate and may not be ideal for large families. For more information, see the Consumer’s Guide, Demand (Tankless) Water Heaters page.

Tankless coil water heaters use a heating coil installed in the main furnace for water heating. Common in oil-fired boilers and some gas-fired boilers, tankless coil water heaters are an inefficient means of heating water. A better solution is offered by indirect water heaters, which use the main furnace to heat a fluid that is then circulated through a tank of water. The energy stored by the water tank allows the furnace to turn on and off less often, thereby saving energy. If used with a high-efficiency boiler and a well-insulated tank, this can be the least expensive means of providing hot water.

For safety as well as energy-efficiency reasons, when buying gas- and oil-fired water heaters, look for units with sealed combustion or power venting to avoid back-drafting of combustion gases into the home.

Energy-Efficient Water Heating

To lower your water heating bills, try one or more of these energy-saving strategies.  If you haven’t already, you can save energy and money by installing a new, more energy-efficient water heater in your home

Reduce Hot Water Use for Energy Savings

You can lower your water heating costs by using and wasting less hot water in your home. To conserve hot water, you can fix leaks, install low-flow fixtures, and purchase an energy-efficient dishwasher and clothes washer.

Fix Leaks

You can significantly reduce hot water use by simply repairing leaks in fixtures—faucets and showerheads—or pipes. A leak of one drip per second can cost $1 per month.

If your water heater’s tank leaks, you need a new water heater.

Install Low-Flow Fixtures

Federal regulations mandate that new showerhead flow rates can’t exceed more than 2.5 gallons per minute (gpm) at a water pressure of 80 pounds per square inch (psi). New faucet flow rates can’t exceed 2.5 gpm at 80 psi or 2.2 gpm at 60 psi. You can purchase some quality, low-flow fixtures for around $10 to $20 a piece and achieve water savings of 25–60%.

Showerheads

For maximum water efficiency, select a shower head with a flow rate of less than 2.5 gpm. There are two basic types of low-flow showerheads: aerating and laminar-flow. Aerating showerheads mix air with water, forming a misty spray. Laminar-flow showerheads form inpidual streams of water. If you live in a humid climate, you might want to use a laminar-flow showerhead because it won’t create as much steam and moisture as an aerating one.

Before 1992, some showerheads had flow rates of 5.5 gpm. Therefore, if you have fixtures that pre-date 1992, you might want to replace them if you’re not sure of their flow rates. Here’s a quick test to determine whether you should replace a showerhead:

1. Place a bucket—marked in gallon increments—under your shower head.
2. Turn on the shower at the normal water pressure you use.
3. Time how many seconds it takes to fill the bucket to the 1-gallon (3.8 liter) mark.

If it takes less than 20 seconds to reach the 1-gallon mark, you could benefit from a low-flow shower head.

Faucets

The aerator—the screw-on tip of the faucet—ultimately determines the maximum flow rate of a faucet. Typically, new kitchen faucets come equipped with aerators that restrict flow rates to 2.2 gpm, while new bathroom faucets have ones that restrict flow rates from 1.5 to 0.5 gpm.

Aerators are inexpensive to replace and they can be one of the most cost-effective water conservation measures. For maximum water efficiency, purchase aerators that have flow rates of no more than 1.0 gpm. Some aerators even come with shut-off valves that allow you to stop the flow of water without affecting the temperature. When replacing an aerator, bring the one you’re replacing to the store with you to ensure a proper fit.

Purchase Energy-Efficient Dishwashers and Clothes Washers

The biggest cost of washing dishes and clothes comes from the energy required to heat the water. You’ll significantly reduce your energy costs if you purchase and use an energy-efficient dishwasher and clothes washer.

Dishwashers

It’s commonly assumed that washing dishes by hand saves hot water. However, washing dishes by hand several time a day can be more expensive than operating an energy-efficient dishwasher. You can consume less energy with an energy-efficient dishwasher when properly used and when only operating it with full loads.

When purchasing a new dishwasher, check the EnergyGuide label to see how much energy it uses. Dishwashers fall into one of two categories: compact capacity and standard capacity. Although compact-capacity dishwashers may appear to be more energy efficient on the EnergyGuide Label, they hold fewer dishes, which may force you to use it more frequently. In this case, your energy costs could be higher than with a standard-capacity dishwasher.

One feature that makes a dishwasher more energy efficient is a booster heater. A booster heater increases the temperature of the water entering the dishwasher to the 140ºF recommended for cleaning. Some dishwashers have built-in boosters, while others require manual selection before the wash cycle begins. Some also only activate the booster during the heavy-duty cycle. Dishwashers with booster heaters typically cost more, but they pay for themselves with energy savings in about 1 year if you also lower the water temperature on your water heater.

Another dishwasher feature that reduces hot water use is the availability of cycle selections. Shorter cycles require less water, thereby reducing energy cost.

If you want to ensure that your new dishwasher is energy efficient, purchase one with an ENERGY STAR label.

Clothes Washers

Unlike dishwashers, clothes washers don’t require a minimum temperature for optimum cleaning. Therefore, to reduce energy costs, you can use either cold or warm water for most laundry loads. Cold water is always sufficient for rinsing.

Inefficient clothes washers can cost three times as much to operate than energy-efficient ones. Select a new machine that allows you to adjust the water temperature and levels for different loads. Efficient clothes washers spin-dry your clothes more effectively too, saving energy when drying as well. Also, front-loading machines use less water and, consequently, less energy than top loaders.

Small-capacity clothes washers often have better EnergyGuide label ratings. However, a reduced capacity might increase the number of loads you need to run, which could increase your energy costs.

If you want to ensure that your new clothes washer is energy efficient, purchase one with an ENERGY STAR label.
Lower Water Heating Temperature for Energy Savings

You can reduce your water heating costs by simply lowering the thermostat setting on your water heater. For each 10ºF reduction in water temperature, you can save between 3%–5% in energy costs.

Although some manufacturers set water heater thermostats at 140ºF, most households usually only require them set at 120ºF or even 115ºF. Water heated at 140ºF also poses a safety hazard—scalding. However, if you have a dishwasher without a booster heater, it may require a water temperature within a range of 130ºF to 140ºF for optimum cleaning.

Reducing your water temperature to 120ºF also slows mineral buildup and corrosion in your water heater and pipes. This helps your water heater last longer and operate at its maximum efficiency.

Consult your water heater owner’s manual for instructions on how to operate the thermostat. You can find a thermostat dial for a gas storage water heater near the bottom of the tank on the gas valve. Electric water heaters, on the other hand, may have thermostats positioned behind screw-on plates or panels. As a safety precaution, shut off the electricity to the water heater before removing/opening the panels. Keep in mind that an electric water heater may have two thermostats—one each for the upper and lower heating elements.

Mark the beginning temperature and the adjusted temperature on the thermostat dial for future reference. After turning it down, check the water temperature with a thermometer at the tap farthest from the water heater. Thermostat dials are often inaccurate. Several adjustments may be necessary before you get the right temperature.

If you plan to be away from home for at least 3 days, turn the thermostat down to the lowest setting or completely turn off the water heater. To turn off an electric water heater, switch off the circuit breaker to it. For a gas water heater, make sure you know how to safely relight the pilot light before turning it off.

Insulate Your Water Heater Tank for Energy Savings

Unless your water heater’s storage tank already has a high R-value of insulation (at least R-24), adding insulation to it can reduce standby heat losses by 25%–45%. This will save you around 4%–9% in water heating costs.

If you don’t know your water heater tank’s R-value, touch it. A tank that’s warm to the touch needs additional insulation.

Insulating your storage water heater tank is fairly simple and inexpensive, and it will pay for itself in about a year. You can find pre-cut jackets or blankets available from around $10–$20. Choose one with an insulating value of at least R-8. Some utilities sell them at low prices, offer rebates, and even install them at a low or no cost.

Insulating an Electric Water Heater Tank

You can probably install an insulating pre-cut jacket or blanket on your electric water heater tank yourself. Read and follow the directions carefully. Leave the thermostat access panel(s) uncovered. Don’t set the thermostat above 130ºF on electric water heater with an insulating jacket or blanket—the wiring may overheat.

You also might consider placing a piece of rigid insulation—a bottom board— under the tank of your electric water heater. This will help prevent heat loss into the floor, saving another 4%–9% of water heating energy. It’s best done when installing a new water heater.

Insulating a Gas Water Heater Tank

The installation of insulating blankets or jackets on gas and oil-fired water heater tanks is more difficult than those for electric water heater tanks. It’s best to have a qualified plumbing and heating contractor add the insulation. If you want to install it yourself, read and follow the directions very carefully. Keep the jacket or blanket away from the drain at the bottom and the flue at the top. Make sure the airflow to the burner isn’t obstructed. Leave the thermostat uncovered, and don’t insulate the top of a gas water heater tank—the insulation is combustible and can interfere with the draft perter.
Insulate Hot Water Pipes for Energy Savings

Insulating your hot water pipes reduces heat loss and can raise water temperature 2ºF–4ºF hotter than uninsulated pipes can deliver, allowing for a lower water temperature setting. You also won’t have to wait as long for hot water when you turn on a faucet or showerhead, which helps conserve water.

Insulate all accessible hot water pipes, especially within 3 feet of the water heater. It’s also a good idea to insulate the cold water inlet pipes for the first 3 feet.

Use quality pipe insulation wrap, or neatly tape strips of fiberglass insulation around the pipes. Pipe sleeves made with polyethylene or neoprene foam are the most commonly used insulation. Match the pipe sleeve’s inside diameter to the pipe’s outside diameter for a snug fit. Place the pipe sleeve so the seam will be face down on the pipe. Tape, wire, or clamp (with a cable tie ) it every foot or two to secure it to the pipe. If you use tape, some recommend using acrylic tape instead of duct tape.

On gas water heaters, keep insulation at least 6 inches from the flue. If pipes are within 8 inches of the flue, your safest choice is to use fiberglass pipe-wrap (at least 1-inch thick) without a facing. You can use either wire or aluminum foil tape to secure it to the pipe.

Install Heat Traps on a Water Heater Tank for Energy Savings

If your storage water heater doesn’t have heat traps, you can save energy by adding them to your water heating system. They can save you around $15–$30 on your water heating bill by preventing convective heat losses through the inlet and outlet pipes.

Heat traps—valves or loops of pipe—allow water to flow into the water heater tank but prevent unwanted hot-water flow out of the tank. The valves have balls inside that either float or sink into a seat, which stops convection. These specially designed valves come in pairs. The valves are designed differently for use in either the hot or cold water line.

A pair of heat traps costs only around $30. However, unless you can properly solder a pipe joint, heat traps require professional installation by a qualified plumbing and heating contractor. Therefore, heat traps are most cost effective if they’re installed at the same time as the water heater. Today, many new storage water heaters have factory-installed heat traps or have them available as an option.
Install a Timer and Use Off-Peak Power for Electric Water Heaters

If you have an electric water heater, you can save an additional 5%–12% of energy by installing a timer that turns it off at night when you don’t use hot water and/or during your utility’s peak demand times.

You can install a timer yourself. They can cost $60 or more, but they can pay for themselves in about 1 year. Timers are most cost effective if you don’t want to install a heat trap and insulate your water heater tank and pipes. Timers aren’t as cost effective or useful on gas water heaters because of their pilot lights.

Contact your utility to see if it offers a demand management program. Some utilities offer “time of use” electricity rates that vary according to the demand on their system. They charge higher rates during “on-peak”< times and lower rates during “off-peak” times. Some even offer incentives to customers who allow them to install control devices that shut off electric water heaters during peak demand periods. These control devices may use radio signals that allow a utility to shut off a water heater remotely anytime demand is high. Shut-off periods are generally brief so customers experience no reduction in service.

Drain-Water Heat Recovery

Any hot water that goes down the drain carries away energy with it. That’s typically 80–90% of the energy used to heat water in a home. Drain-water (or greywater) heat recovery systems capture this energy to preheat cold water entering the water heater or going to other water fixtures.
How It Works

Drain-water heat recovery technology works well with all types of water heaters, especially with demand and solar water heaters. Also, drain-water heat exchangers can recover heat from the hot water used in showers, bathtubs, sinks, dishwashers, and clothes washers. They generally have the ability to store recovered heat for later use. You’ll need a unit with storage capacity for use with a dishwasher or clothes washer. Without storage capacity, you’ll only have useful energy during the simultaneous flow of cold water and heated drain water, like while showering.

Some storage-type systems have tanks containing a reservoir of clean water. Drain water flows through a spiral tube at the bottom of the heat storage tank. This warms the tank water, which rises to the top. Water heater intake water is preheated by circulation through a coil at the top of the tank.

Non-storage systems usually have a copper heat exchanger that replaces a vertical section of a main waste drain. As warm water flows down the waste drain, incoming cold water flows through a spiral copper tube wrapped tightly around the copper section of the waste drain. This preheats the incoming cold water that goes to the water heater or a fixture, such as a shower.

By preheating cold water, drain-water heat recovery systems help increase water heating capacity. This increased capacity really helps if you have an undersized water heater. You can also lower your water heating temperature without affecting the capacity.

Cost and Installation

Prices for drain-water heat recovery systems range from $300 to $500. You’ll need a qualified plumbing and heating contractor to install the system. Installation will usually be less expensive in new home construction. Paybacks range from 2.5 to 7 years, depending on how often the system is used.

Selecting a New Water Heater

You have a lot to consider when selecting a new water heater for your home. You should choose a water heating system that will not only provide enough hot water but also that will do so energy efficiently, saving you money. This includes considering the different types of water heaters available and determining the right size and fuel source for your home.

Types of Water Heaters

It’s a good idea to know the different types of water heaters available before you purchase one:

Conventional Storage Water Heaters

Conventional storage water heaters remain the most popular type of water heating system for the home. Here you’ll find basic information about how storage water heaters work; what criteria to use when selecting the right model; and some installation, maintenance, and safety tips.

How They Work

A single-family storage water heater offers a ready reservoir—from 20 to 80 gallons—of hot water. It operates by releasing hot water from the top of the tank when you turn on the hot water tap. To replace that hot water, cold water enters the bottom of the tank, ensuring that the tank is always full.

Conventional storage water heater fuel sources include natural gas, propane, fuel oil, and electricity. Natural gas and propane water heaters basically operate the same. A gas burner under the tank heats the water. A thermostat opens the gas valve as the water temperature falls. The valve closes when the temperature rises to the thermostat’s setpoint. Oil-fired water heaters operate similarly, but they have power burners that mix oil and air in a vaporizing mist, ignited by an electric spark. Electric water heaters have one or two electric elements, each with its own thermostat. With two electric elements, a standby element at the bottom of the tank maintains the minimum thermostat setting while the upper demand element provides hot water recovery when demand heightens.

Because water is constantly heated in the tank, energy can be wasted even when a hot water tap isn’t running. This is called standby heat loss. Only tankless water heaters—such as demand water heaters and tankless coil water heaters—avoid standby heat losses. However, you can find some storage water heater models with heavily insulated tanks, which significantly reduce standby heat losses, lowering annual operating costs. Look for models with tanks that have a thermal resistance (R-Value) of R-12 to R-25.

Gas and oil water heaters also have venting-related energy losses. Two types of water heaters—a fan-assisted gas water heater and an atmospheric sealed-combustion water heater—reduce these losses. The fan-assisted gas water heater uses a draft-induced fan that regulates the air that passes through the burner, which minimizes the amount of excess air during combustion, increasing efficiency. The atmospheric sealed-combustion water heater uses a combustion and venting system that is totally sealed from the house.

You might also want to consider some less conventional storage water heaters—heat pump water heaters and solar water heaters. These water heaters are usually more expensive but they typically have lower annual operating costs.

Demand (Tankless or Instantaneous) Water Heaters

Demand (tankless or instantaneous) water heaters provide hot water only as it is needed. They don’t produce the standby energy losses associated with storage water heaters, which can save you money. Here you’ll find basic information about how they work, whether a demand water heater might be right for your home, and what criteria to use when selecting the right model.

How They Work

Demand water heaters heat water directly without the use of a storage tank. Therefore, they avoid the standby heat losses associated with storage water heaters. When a hot water tap is turned on, cold water travels through a pipe into the unit. Either a gas burner or an electric element heats the water. As a result, demand water heaters deliver a constant supply of hot water. You don’t need to wait for a storage tank to fill up with enough hot water. However, a demand water heater’s output limits the flow rate.

Typically, demand water heaters provide hot water at a rate of 2–5 gallons (7.6–15.2 liters) per minute. Gas-fired demand water heaters produce higher flow rates than electric ones. Sometimes, however, even the largest, gas-fired model cannot supply enough hot water for simultaneous, multiple uses in large households. For example, taking a shower and running the dishwasher at the same time can stretch a demand water heater to its limit. To overcome this problem, you can install two or more demand water heaters, connected in parallel for simultaneous demands of hot water. You can also install separate demand water heaters for appliances—such as a clothes washer or dishwater—that use a lot of hot water in your home.

Other applications for demand water heaters include the following:

• Remote bathrooms or hot tubs
• Booster for appliances, such as dishwashers or clothes washers
• Booster for a solar water heating system.

Although gas-fired demand water heaters tend to have higher flow rates than electric ones, they can waste energy if they have a constantly burning pilot light. This can sometimes offset the elimination of standby energy losses when compared to a storage water heater. In a gas-fired storage water heater, the pilot light heats the water in the tank so the energy isn’t wasted. The cost of operating a pilot light in a demand water heater varies from model to model. Ask the manufacturer how much gas the pilot light uses for the model you’re considering. If you purchase a model that uses a standing pilot light, you can always turn it off when it’s not in use to save energy. Also consider models that have an intermittent ignition device (IID) instead of a standing pilot light. This device resembles the spark ignition device on some gas kitchen ranges and ovens.

For homes that use 41 gallons or less of hot water daily, demand water heaters can be 24%–34% more energy efficient than conventional storage tank water heaters. They can be 8%–14% more energy efficient for homes that use a lot of hot water—around 86 gallons per day. You can achieve even greater energy savings of 27%–50% if you install a demand water heater at each hot water outlet.

Solar Water Heaters

Solar water heaters—also called solar domestic hot water systems—can be a cost-effective way to generate hot water for your home. They can be used in any climate, and the fuel they use—sunshine—is free.

How They Work

Solar water heating systems include storage tanks and solar collectors. There are two types of solar water heating systems: active, which have circulating pumps and controls, and passive, which don’t.

Most solar water heaters require a well-insulated storage tank. Solar storage tanks have an additional outlet and inlet connected to and from the collector. In two-tank systems, the solar water heater preheats water before it enters the conventional water heater. In one-tank systems, the back-up heater is combined with the solar storage in one tank.

Three types of solar collectors are used for residential applications:

Flat-plate collector

• Glazed flat-plate collectors are insulated, weatherproofed boxes that contain a dark absorber plate under one or more glass or plastic (polymer) covers. Unglazed flat-plate collectors—typically used for solar pool heating—have a dark absorber plate, made of metal or polymer, without a cover or enclosure.
• Integral collector-storage systemsAlso known as ICS or batch systems, they feature one or more black tanks or tubes in an insulated, glazed box. Cold water first passes through the solar collector, which preheats the water. The water then continues on to the conventional backup water heater, providing a reliable source of hot water. They should be installed only in mild-freeze climates because the outdoor pipes could freeze in severe, cold weather.
• Evacuated-tube solar collectorsThey feature parallel rows of transparent glass tubes. Each tube contains a glass outer tube and metal absorber tube attached to a fin. The fin’s coating absorbs solar energy but inhibits radiative heat loss. These collectors are used more frequently for U.S. commercial applications.

There are two types of active solar water heating systems:

• Direct circulation systems
  Pumps circulate household water through the collectors and into the home. They work well in climates where it rarely freezes.
• Indirect circulation systems
  Pumps circulate a non-freezing, heat-transfer fluid through the collectors and a heat exchanger. This heats the water that then flows into the home. They are popular in climates prone to freezing temperatures.

Passive solar water heating systems are typically less expensive than active systems, but they’re usually not as efficient. However, passive systems can be more reliable and may last longer. There are two basic types of passive systems:

• Integral collector-storage passive systems
  These work best in areas where temperatures rarely fall below freezing. They also work well in households with significant daytime and evening hot-water needs.
• Thermosyphon systems
  Water flows through the system when warm water rises as cooler water sinks. The collector must be installed below the storage tank so that warm water will rise into the tank. These systems are reliable, but contractors must pay careful attention to the roof design because of the heavy storage tank. They are usually more expensive than integral collector-storage passive systems.

Solar water heating systems almost always require a backup system for cloudy days and times of increased demand. Conventional storage water heaters usually provide backup and may already be part of the solar system package. A backup system may also be part of the solar collector, such as rooftop tanks with thermosyphon systems. Since an integral-collector storage system already stores hot water in addition to collecting solar heat, it may be packaged with a demand (tankless or instantaneous) water heater for backup.

Tankless Coil and Indirect Water Heaters

Tankless coil and indirect water heaters use a home’s space heating system to heat water. They’re part of what’s called integrated or combination water and space heating systems.

How They Work

A tankless coil water heater uses a heating coil or heat exchanger installed in a main furnace or boiler.

Whenever a hot water faucet is turned on, the water flows through the heat exchanger. These water heaters provide hot water on demand without a tank, like a demand water heater, but because they rely on the furnace or boiler to heat the water directly, tankless coil water heaters work most efficiently during cold months when the heating system is used regularly. That’s why they can be an inefficient choice for many homes, especially for those in warmer climates.

Indirect water heaters offer a more efficient choice for most homes, even though they require a storage tank. An indirect water heater uses the main furnace or boiler to heat a fluid that’s circulated through a heat exchanger in the storage tank. The energy stored by the water tank allows the furnace to turn off and on less often, which saves energy. Therefore, an indirect water heater is used with a high-efficiency boiler and well-insulated tank can be the least expensive means of providing hot water.

Indirect systems can be fired by gas, oil, propane, electric, solar energy, or a combination of any of these. Tankless systems are typically electric or gas-fired. Also, these integrated or combination water heating systems not only can work with forced air systems but also with hydronic or radiant floor heating systems.

Heat Pump Water Heaters

Most homeowners who have heat pumps use them to heat and cool their homes. But a heat pump also can be used to heat water—either as stand-alone water heating system, or as combination water heating and space conditioning system.

How They Work

Heat pump water heaters use electricity to move heat from one place to another instead of generating heat directly. Therefore, they can be two to three times more energy efficient than conventional electric resistance water heaters. To move the heat, heat pumps work like a refrigerator in reverse.

While a refrigerator pulls heat from inside a box and dumps it into the surrounding room, a stand-alone air-source heat pump water heater pulls heat from the surrounding air and dumps it—at a higher temperature—into a tank to heat water. You can purchase a stand-alone heat pump water heating system as an integrated unit with a built-in water storage tank and back-up resistance heating elements. You can also retrofit a heat pump to work with an existing conventional storage water heater. They require installation in locations that remain in the 40º–90ºF (4.4º–32.2ºC) range year-round and provide at least 1,000 cubic feet (28.3 cubic meters) of air space around the water heater. Cool exhaust air can be exhausted to the room or outdoors. Install them in a space with excess heat, such as a furnace room. Heat pump water heaters will not operate efficiently in a cold space. They tend to cool the spaces they are in. You can also install an air-source heat pump system that combines heating, cooling, and water heating. These combination systems pull their heat indoors from the outdoor air in the winter and from the indoor air in the summer. Because they remove heat from the air, any type of air-source heat pump system works more efficiently in a warm climate.

Homeowners primarily install geothermal heat pumps—which draw heat from the ground during the winter and from the indoor air during the summer—for heating and cooling their homes. For water heating, you can add a desuperheater to a geothermal heat pump system. A desuperheater is a small, auxiliary heat exchanger that uses superheated gases from the heat pump’s compressor to heat water. This hot water then circulates through a pipe to the home’s storage water heater tank.

Desuperheaters are also available for demand (tankless or instantaneous) water heaters. In the summer, the desuperheater uses the excess heat that would otherwise be expelled to the ground. Therefore, when the geothermal heat pump runs frequently during the summer, it can heat all of your water. During the fall, winter, and spring—when the desuperheater isn’t producing as much excess heat—you’ll need to rely more on your storage or demand water heater to heat the water. Some manufacturers also offer triple-function geothermal heat pump systems, which provide heating, cooling, and hot water. They use a separate heat exchanger to meet all of a household’s hot water needs.

Sump Pumps

Sump pumps are employed to help prevent basement flooding. The protection they offer is especially important in finished basements containing recreation rooms, offices and bedrooms. As the water table rises and falls through the seasons, the pump collects excess water and moves it away from your home’s foundation. A variety of pumps and sizes are available including water powered and battery powered back up models for use in areas prone to power outages. We’ll be happy to evaluate your needs and help you select the correct sump pump for your home.

Built-in Soap Dispensers

These dispensers are growing in popularity as homeowners take measures to increase convenience and eliminate clutter. Most styles feature a reservoir beneath the sink which is refillable from the top. They can be easily added to sinks in the bathroom or kitchen, where a second dispenser can be installed for dishwashing liquid.

Reward Yourself with a Whirlpool Bath

There’s nothing like a good hot soak at the end of a long, hard day.

Whirlpool baths can be easily installed in many existing bathrooms, with little or no remodeling. A whirlpool bath consists of a pump/motor, in-line heater and series of pipes which use suction to circulate heated water and air through jets located near the base of the tub. Of all the plumbing upgrades available, this one is a favorite and with good reason. Ask us what it would take to put one in your home.

Instant Hot Water Dispensers

Wouldn’t it be nice to have hot water at just the right temperature instantly available for a cup of cocoa, coffee or tea?

The perfect drinking temperature is always on tap when you install an instant hot water dispenser. Units are installed out of sight under the sink or counter and water is easily accessed with a compact faucet mounted on your sink. Give the tea kettle a rest and save time and money with this exceptional convenience!

Don’t Get Burned!…An Anti-Scald Device Will Protect Your Family

In homes where there is a high demand for hot water, homeowners often turn up the temperature on their hot water heaters to meet this need, sometimes well beyond the 120 degree Farenheit factory setting considered safe. Temperatures higher than this can cause severe scalding. At highest risk are children and elderly or disabled persons.

In such situations, installing an anti-scald device is an affordable way to protect against this risk.

Scalding Facts

• Hot water scalds account for 20% of all burns
• More than 2,000 American children are treated for scalds each year
• Scalding accidents occur most frequently in the bathrooms and kitchens where they are most preventable
• Scalding leads to additional injuries such as heart attacks, shock, falls, and serious broken bones, particularly among the elderly
• Scalding and other burns require the most expensive treatments: long hospital stays, costly skin grafts, and plastic surgery
• Most U.S. states now mandate some form of anti-scald measures in building codes

Source: Shriner Burns Hospital

Under Sink Water Filtration Systems

You and your family can enjoy purer, better tasting water with water filtration systems that stay out of sight and require little maintenance. For pennies a day, these systems remove undesirable chemicals which may be present in the water supply, along with lead, sediment, chlorine and sources of other tastes and odors. Options range from whole-house filtration systems to those which reside under your kitchen sink and are tapped at a separate faucet. If water quality, effectiveness and convenience are things you’re concerned about, a built-in filtration system may be right for you.

Hot Water Re-Circulation Systems…When You Need a Lot of Hot Water Fast

If you demand a lot of hot water with minimal waiting on your hot water heater, a hot water recirculation system may be the solution for you. The system consists of a small pump mounted near the bottom of your water heater along with a swing check valve and return line from your farthest fixture. The cost of operating such a system can be minimized using new energy efficient pumps and incorporating a timer and/or thermostat to program the system to turn off when it detects ample hot water or during times of day when the demand for hot water is reduced.

Shower Without Fear of Hot Water Spikes

Nothing disrupts a relaxing shower like a rush of scalding water when someone flushes a toilet. This causes changes in your pressure in the water line supplying your shower, and when you have changes in pressure on one side and not the other, you will feel the result of different volumes of hot versus cold water. Fortunately, this common problem is easily solved by installing a pressure balance device on the hot and cold water that feeds the shower faucet to detect changes in pressure and automatically balance it. Alternatively, you can have the shower faucet replaced with a pressure balance faucet. Want to shower without fear? We’ll be happy to help.

UV Water Filters Out Disease-Causing Bacteria

UltraViolet (UV) light has long been used by hospitals for sterilization and has become increasingly popular for removing airborne viruses, bacteria and other contaminants from breathing air as it passes through circulation systems. But, did you know this clean, effective technology is also available for removing microscopic traces of disease-causing bacteria, viruses, algae, fungi and protozoa commonly found in water? The UV process disinfects water, preventing living organisms from reproducing, where other types of filtration simply remove undesirable non-living contaminants. Ask us about it.

Molds, Mildew and Fungus

Molds, mildew and fungus are microorganisms. They are found in damp surfaces like bathroom walls, window trims, and in places where water can accumulate like basements that flood.

Mold and fungus organisms will grow on materials that get dampened by water leaks and/or condensation. They can look like black stains, or specks of black, white, orange, green, or brown. These types of microroganisms can cause infections, allergies, asthma, and other breathing problems. There are many types of molds. Take a tour of your home and look for the following;

• Leaks in your roof or plumbing – Any water that is trapped inside walls or under carpeting will cause molds to grow there. In not so obvious places, check to see if your walls or rugs have light stains or a strong musty smell.
• Mold in your basement – Rain or moisture can penetrate your home’s concrete foundation and make the bottom of carpets or inside of finished walls moldy.
• Dampness at the base of the walls.
• Rust at the base of steel posts or heaters.
• Stains, discoloration or decay on wood partitions, paneling, drywall and wood posts.
• White powdery substance on the concrete.
• Peeling floor tiles.
• Mildewed carpeting.

If you find a leak in your roof or plumbing, mold in any area of your home or flooding in your basement, don’t panic! There are steps to take to clean and disinfect the areas that have been affected. Although cleaning walls and floors is labouring and time consuming it is necessary to do it properly to get the best results. If you are unable to remove the mold or do not want to attempt to remove it, seek the services of a mold removal company. But remember, it must be done. The effects of mold are very dangerous so make sure to deal with the problem.

Types of Mold

There are many types of mold, some of which can be just a mild nuisance while others can be toxic and can produce serious health problems to those who are exposed to it.

The issue of mold contamination poses a serious health threat for many people who may or may not be aware that they are possibly at risk in their homes, schools and workplaces.

Toxic Mold

Some types of mold may contain mycotoxins that can be life-threatening to everyone especially infants, the elderly and any person with immune system deficiencies.

Stachybotrys chartarum is a type of toxic mold which will grow anywhere indoors where there is moisture. This type of mold is most commonly found in homes or buildings that have sustained flooding or water damage, roof, wall or floor leaks or condensation.

• It continues to grow as long as the area remains damp or wet.
• It is usually black in appearance (but can be other colors), slightly shiny at first and powdery when dry.

The World Health Organization and the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency have raised concerns about the dangers of poor air quality and how it is related to SBS (sick building syndrome.)

Common Places to Find Toxic Mold

• Paper covering of gypsum wall board
• Wallpaper
• Cellulose based ceiling tiles
• Paper products
• Carpets with natural fibers
• Paper covering on insulated pipes
• Insulation material
• Wood and wood paneling
• General organic debris
• Paper covering on fiberglass insulation

Mild symptoms to mold exposure can produce flu-like discomforts such as a stuffy nose, eye irritation or wheezing.

Severe reactions occur when people are exposed to large amounts of mold which may cause fever and shortness of breath.

Those with chronic mold exposure may suffer from obstructive lung disease or lung infections.

Common Types of Indoor Mold

• Cladosporium
• Penicillium
• Aspergillus
• Alternaria

Effects of Mold

Mold is present both indoors and outdoors. It is likely to grow in areas where water and dampness are present.

Mold most commonly grows in the following places:

• Basements
• Kitchens
• Bathrooms
• Closets
• Clothing
• Carpeting
• Wallpaper
• Furniture
• Plants
• Cement walls
• Food

The effects of mold can be damaging. Not only can mold cause great damage to the area that it grows in, but it can also affect the health of those who are exposed to it.

These are some of the possible effects of mold to be cautious of:

Effects on Air Quality – Everyone is exposed to mold on a daily basis without harm. However, mold spores can become dangerous when they enter the air and are inhaled in large numbers.

The effects of mold on air quality are suspected as being the cause of a variety of inhalation exposure illnesses such as asthma and sinusitis.

Common symptoms of these illnesses include:

• respiratory problems
• nasal and sinus congestion
• eye-burning, blurry vision, light sensitivity
• severely dry cough
• sore throat
• shortness of breath

A physician should be consulted if you suspect that you are suffering from an inhalation exposure illness.

Mold in Furniture – A piece of furniture may become contaminated by mold if it has come into contact with excessive moisture or with settled mold spores. These settled spores might aggravate allergies in some people.

It is highly recommended that affected furniture be removed from the home in order to improve the air quality and reduce the risk of respiratory illnesses.

Cleaning the furniture can not ensure the complete removal of mold. Such items as couches and mattresses must be specially treated in order to completely remove mold. With such items as bed pillows, throw pillows, and stuffed animals, however, it may be more cost effective to dispose of the items than to treat them.

Mold in Wallpaper – In warm environment, vinyl wallpaper can trap moisture-filled air. The trapped moisture serves as a breeding ground for mold. The mold will eat the drywall, the glue that holds the wallpaper, and the wallpaper itself.

It is always a good idea to use paint or apply wall-coverings with permeable paper backings that do not trap moisture on exterior walls.

Mold in Clothing – Mold can be found in damp-ridden clothing. Wearing contaminated clothing may cause allergies and skin irritations.

In order to properly clean mold from clothing follow these directions:

• Fill the washing machine up with water
• Pour in 20 multeam borax and hydrogen peroxide
• Put clothing into the machine and let them spin for 2 minutes
• Stop the spin cycle, and let clothes soak for about 4 hours
• Allow clothes to go through normal wash cycle
• When cycle is finished, it is recommended that these directions be followed a second time.

Mold in Carpeting – Carpeting that was saturated with water (i.e. from a flood) will most likely grow mold. If the carpet is not removed immediately following saturation, mold spores will settle and affect the air quality of your home. Respiratory problems are a common cause of carpet mold.

Carpet cleaning will not kill the mold. All wet or damp carpeting must be ripped out and thrown away. The longer the carpeting remains in your home, the worse the mold problem will be.

Treatment

Fabrics

• Beds and carpeting should always be discarded. These items cannot be cleaned.
• Draperies and clothing can be saved by washing or dry cleaning.

Floors and Walls

• Moldy walls, ceilings, and floors must be washed more than once to properly clean and disinfect.
• Wear rubber gloves to protect your hands.
• After cleaning, the surface should be allowed to thoroughly dry.
• Wash the walls, ceilings, or floors again using a mixture of liquid household chlorine bleach and water.
• If you have water in your basement, remove as many items as possible furniture, carpeting, and stored boxes of clothing or appliances.
• Use a disinfectant or chlorine bleach solution to scrub walls, paneling, and sheet rock.

Controlling Condensation

There are two ways to control condensation; insulation and dehumidification. Here are some ways to help keep your basement dry.

• Use a fan to circulate basement air.
• Use a humidifier to remove excess moisture in the air.
• Do not keep wet clothing or materials around the house, use a dryer or clothesline to dry them.
• If your basement is damp, get a dehumidifier to remove moisture from the air.
• Air conditioners are great for the summer months; they remove some moisture as well as cool the air.

Rugs are better than carpeting for basements because they can be removed and cleaned easier and lessen the headache when there is water damage to your basement (although a sump pump will prevent flooding altogether).

Solutions

• Always keep your home as dry as possible.
• Do not wait to make repairs on your roof and plumbing leaks.
• Using a sump pump is the best device to keep water out of your basement.
• Never ignore the dangers and effects of mold.